Wednesday, August 16, 2006

Leaving Mother Lake: A Girlhood at the Edge of the World

Rating:★★★★★
Category:Books
Genre: Biographies & Memoirs
Author:Yang Erche Namu and Christine Matthieu
I was in Beijing for about a week when I finally stepped in a bookstore that sells English books. Imagine me salivating as I faced rows upon rows of books that I can finally consume. I didn't know where to start satisfying my thirst for the written word that was unquenched for a year except for the books that I brought from Manila and some mostly unentertaining magazines lying around the house, probably left behind by former foreign teachers.

One of the books that caught my attention is Leaving Mother Lake, because of the mother-daughter theme that it promises in its blurb. This might give me some inspiration for my own novel, I thought. It also tells of a matriarchal society where, among other things, property is passed on from mother to daughter and marriage is considered a foreign custom. Interesting, I said to myself. And because there were other books to keep me occupied, it sat on the floor or any other of my makeshift bookshelves for about a month.

One night though, as I was eating and drinking with some of the athletes in one of their rooms, someone mentioned a place in China where a woman can have many lovers and where the identity of her children's father is none of anyone's business but hers alone. One of the female athletes was quick to make me understand that this is only in a small village in Yunnan and not the usual practice in China.

It was after a few more nights when I remembered to look more carefully at the book's introduction, and then started reading the book itself to see if it was the same group of people that they mentioned. Sure enough, the Moso group can be found in Yunnan and yes, theirs is a completely different world that would probably most resemble utopia. Except this one is real, however misunderstood and misrepresented.

In Moso country, everything is shared. Even lovers. Their word for father is very rarely used as children call their mother's lover "uncle" even if he is their father. Sometimes children never know who their fathers are. It is perfectly normal to exchange children among sisters and neighbors. One is expected to live in her mother's house and raise her own children and aspire to be a Daba, the head of the household.

Despite all the differences, ultimately the book is about a daughter who time and again has disappointed her mother and her people by desiring something almost unimaginable, that of a life outside their small village. It is about pride for one's people and culture even as the government has on several occasions forced them to a life totally alien to them. It is about alienation in both a world where one was born in and a world one has adopted.

And it is good. It is really good. Enough to make me want to write this entry when I could have just slept or moved on to the next book. This of course does not do justice to what the book is. You have to read it. So go.

22 comments:

  1. I've talked to a few people about these folks before (I think you and I may have even chatted about this once!). Everyone talks about them in some hushed and awestruck way... like they half-believe it.

    You are sending me that book when you finish it right?

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  2. I already promised it to Nuna. Hmm, maybe I can send it to you then you read it then send it to Nuna? How hard is it to find English reading materials where you're at? It might be available there. If not, I'm open to sending it to you first if both you and Nuna agree to the arrangement. If she doesn't, you can have that other book about the twins. :)

    And... do you or anyone else know how to post an image here? Because in one of the first few pages, there's a roughly 2x2 inch tear and I've been wondering what the censors found so objectionable in that page. Just thought I'd post a picture of that page here.

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  3. I don't know how to post pics here. I think you have to use html code.

    You should send the book to Nuna... I will find it when I get back to the US. I'm too irresponsible to be entrusted to mail something on to someone without losing/destroying it. Objects and I don't get along well.

    And the dearth of reading material in my city is unbelievable. I haven't checked the uni bookstores but the city's biggest bookstore only has Harry Potter, in Chinese of course. It's okay... I am reading "Moby Dick" online right now. Best book ever written by an American, hands down.

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  4. Ok. And when you do find it, send me a picture of that page with the map on it. I'm dying of curiosity.

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  5. Well, I guess you can make use of two remaining images option for your post to do so. :) I tried to add image in a reply, but did not work. But I have seen someone from your friends putting an image in some reply for some of your blog, dont remember although. :(

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  6. Joni, I won't be in the US until December.... can your curiousity wait that long???

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  7. Yes, Sachin, I can also remember people posting pictures and I'm waiting for one of them to speak up. :p Are there two other image options? Because I couldn't find them.

    Jason, does that mean you'll be home for Christmas? Good for you. I still haven't decided if I'm going home yet. But are we still taking the HSK in Beijing in December? Because I'm all for postponing it til the spring. :) It's okay, my curiosity can wait if it doesn't have a choice.

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  8. Notice the missing part on the upper right hand part of the page:


    And for a closer look:


    What could they be hiding? *enter music

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  9. they probably tore out the exact location of the tribe. if women actually started visiting them and realizing how they actually *have options*, why, there'd be chaos.

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  10. Nah! Everyone knows where to find them. In fact, tourism is now one source of livelihood for the village. There's a question and answer portion at the end of the book and Namu mentioned that. :p

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  11. I just talked with a friend who knows someone who went there once (yeah, I know that's not so reliable) - This person said that the girls there were really ugly!

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  12. Oh, and as for the cut-out. That's part of ZhaoTong county that was snipped. They just had a 5 point plus earthquake there last month. Do you remember that?

    I don't know why that would be cut out, nothing of interest there really. It's very poor (even by Chinese standards - infant mortality actually rose there in the last 30 years) and full of minority groups.

    Maybe you should Google Earth it?

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  13. Nuna, I edited my typo but you have it saved in your reply for posterity. Sigh.

    Jason, ugly is relative. And no, I don't remember an earthquake. News of that did not reach me. And about the cut out, I think another possibility is that what they cut out is not really part of the map. You know, it was like an inset or something.

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  14. Agreed ugly is relative... it's like my friend was trying to assure me that this "fairy tale" kind of place wasn't all it was cracked up to be.

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  15. Assuming that the girls were ugly. Well, there are always more ugly people than attractive ones everywhere. Seriously. So why should this place be any different? I mean it's not really paradise (if it is then everyone should be beautiful of course). Err, I don't know, I just thought of that and wanted to share it with everyone. :D

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  16. OK, I just talked to someone else about this place. A married couple who passed through. The guy was careful about how he talked about it in a pretty obvious way while his wife intoned nervously to the other ladies in the room, "don't ever let your husband go there alone."

    Must not have been that ugly eh?

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  17. Very interesting this matter...
    I'll going to pinpoint with GoogleEarth on there....
    Anyway, for the tools available around there, even satellite picxs taken....no sense to 'hidden' some geographic allocation...
    BTW: the best way to show some picture to someone is....posting your image in places like "The Image Hosting":
    [http://theimagehosting.com/]
    is free, and a reliable form to share picx to everyone....

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  18. Jason. Nope, definitely doesn't sound like they're that ugly at all ;). Hmmm...

    Miro, I used http://imageshack.us. It's also free and well, it hasn't disappointed me yet. And I don't think that part that was removed is still part of the map. Sorry, I don't think I explained it well. What I meant was that it must have been something else. Like an information in a box or something, thus the need to cut it out.

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  19. sounds like i'll love this book! jona, i'm next. have it ready when i get home :) oh, never mind. i just reserved it in the public library. i just love the libraries here.

    and i'd love to see this place. i wonder how the men's lives are like. marriage puts a permanency and status and structure to a woman's life in a patriarchal society. since these men aren't married to any woman, they just live off their mothers and sisters until they die? contrary to what the wife Jason knew said, it might be good to bring husband and show him how lucky he is in this society and what could be if he doesn't straighten himself :P

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  20. Men's jobs are travelling to neighboring towns to sell their crops and sometimes farming, too. They're not exactly usless. Hehehe! They can also be sent to study becoming priests so they can officiate rituals, etc. I can't remember for sure now what else. But yes, they live with their mothers and visit lovers at night.

    I'm envious of your libraries there. Sigh. Post a picture of that page!!!

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